💧 Pipe Sizing Calculator
Calculate Water Pipe Size by GPM & Velocity
💧 Pipe Sizing Fundamentals
Proper pipe sizing balances adequate flow capacity with controlled velocity to prevent noise, erosion, and excessive pressure loss.
Key Formula
GPM = (Velocity × Area × 60) / 231
Where Area = π × (Diameter / 2)² (in square inches)
Velocity Guidelines
- Under 3 fps: May have sediment buildup in horizontal runs
- 3-5 fps: Ideal for quiet residential systems
- 5-8 fps: Standard range (code compliant)
- 8-10 fps: Noisy, higher pressure loss
- Over 10 fps: Risk of erosion and water hammer
Sample Sizing Chart (Copper Type L, 6 fps target)
| Pipe Size | Inside Diameter | GPM @ 6 fps |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2" | 0.545" | 3.4 |
| 3/4" | 0.785" | 7.0 |
| 1" | 1.025" | 11.9 |
| 1-1/4" | 1.265" | 18.0 |
| 1-1/2" | 1.505" | 25.5 |
| 2" | 1.985" | 44.0 |
"The biggest mistake DIYers make is undersizing the main supply line. They calculate the peak fixture demand (say, 12 GPM for shower + washing machine + sink) and size the pipe at 12 GPM, forgetting about friction loss. By the time the water gets to the second floor, you've lost 20 psi! Always size up one increment if your run is over 50 feet, and NEVER go smaller than 3/4" for a main house line, even if the math says you can."
⚠️ Common Mistakes
1. Ignoring Fittings: Every 90° elbow adds friction equivalent to ~3 feet of straight pipe. A run with 6 elbows effectively adds 18 feet to your length for pressure loss calculations.
2. Using Nominal Size for Calculations: A "1-inch pipe" is NOT 1 inch inside! Always use the actual ID. Copper Type M has a different ID than Type L.
3. Forgetting Peak Demand: Don't size for average use. Size for when the shower, dishwasher, and outdoor hose are all running at once (simultaneity factor).